The flight back was uneventful. The good thing is that I don't think I got sick, at least I am not sick now (sitting at the airport in Phoenix waiting for a ride).

Descending into LA was strange.  The amount of smoke and haze reminded me of New Delhi.  Around the city huge columns of smoke climbed into the sky.

My time on the ground at LAX was almost constant motion.  After claiming my pack and clearing customs I headed to Southwest. The were able to get me on an earlier flight and even got me in the A boarding group, even though the flight was scheduled to leave within the hour. 

The terminal was dotted with USC crimson.  Big guys with "Simpson" football jerseys, students ahead of me in line with their logo caps on backwards all on their way to Phoenix for the USC-ASU football game. The place buzzed with excitement when the trainers and some third stringers from their football team llined up to board an America West flight a few gates over.  This game is so big that I had read about it in the "Straights Times" in Singapore.

Back in Phoenix it feels strange to be here.  Due to construction that has just started I had to wander around for a bit to find my way. 

Instead of the bright saris and salweez kamisa favored in India, I am very aware of the halter tops and tank tops in Phoenix.  It didn't take long to get used to the modesty of India.  Even more noticeable is the American stand-offishness. Everyone stands more than an arms reach away from strangers. If more than 5 people are on an elevator then others will wait for the next one.  My ability to pass the time talking to anyone seems to only work in India or with people from India.  Feeling a bit awkward in business dress but with a 100 pound backpack I cue up the Grateful Dead on the iPod, and get out the Blackberry to post this, creating an isolating wall of technology, quickly reassimilating to America.  I am excited to be home, but sure miss Mother India.

Shawn

I am on my way to the airport. We tried all day (OK, Herbert at the office tried all day) to figure out a way to get me to Kolkata and then out to the US on Friday.  There were 3 legs of the journey that had to align, but the best we could do was get 2 to align.  I am very disappointed. I was looking forward to a drop-in visit with my many friends in Kolkata. Circumstances got in the way (see below). With my work in Chennai complete my thoughts are a long ways away, thinking about 5 people I haven't seen in a while.  I am leaving a day early and even though I am still here I am missing India and my collegues here very much.  I love this country and its people very much and feel in many ways more comfortable and welcome here than I do in the U.S.

It was raining the day I arrived and it is raining now as the same car, same driver takes me back to the airport.

Kind of fitting. 

I have many pictures to post and stories to tell.  Bear with me for a few days as I assemble the posts.

As before, I have many people to thank for this trip.  I will mention just some:  Sathish - we did it.   To my new friends in Chennai, it was a pleasure to spend 3 weeks with you.  

Most of all I want to thank someone I have been thinking a lot about on this trip. My good friend and mentor, George. Without many hours of guidance I wouldn't have had any of these opportunities. I miss him very much.

On my way home -

Shawn

My hotel in Chennai is located on a major street in the heart of the city.  With heavy curtains that close out all light and no alarm clock, I am reliably woken every morning by the sound of horns and rumbling engines of vehicles on G N Chetty Road.  Today it is eerily quiet.  Only an occaisional car races by, there are only a handful of pedestrians, instead of the usual dozens visible.

45 minutes into the strike it looks like Chennai is substantially shut down.

I am going to keep all options open today.  Not totally confident that I will have a flight to Kolkata.  Getting mixed information.  NDTV and BBC are running banners under their news broadcasting showing flight cancellations across the country.   Now, as I write this, NDTV reports that Air Deccan, Jet and others have cancelled all flights into Kolkata.  If true, I am out of luck.

I have been reading Mike Yon, Jonathon Harley and Dan Brown and that has inspired/influenced my decision to go, despite the risk.  It seems like circumstances may intervene where common sense was absent.

I am off to Kolkata tomorrow. Normally a trip to my favorite city in India would be a welcome event.  But tomorrow, the Communist Party of India (Marxist) has called for a general strike. 

I nearly called off the trip. I set two guidelines for traveling: 1- that the State Department had not issued a travel advisory and that the hotel would send a car to the airport to pick me up.  I had to change hotels, but both conditions were met.

The plan is to fly in, hurry to the car and get to the hotel quickly, without running into a protest or rally. Then hang out in the hotel and wait out the strike.  Our office, and our vendor office will be closed on Thursday, on account of it being too dangerous for staff to travel to the office.

Shawn

After a very interesting and relaxing weekend, I am off to the hill station of Kodaikanal.  It is four hours away by bus.  

I will write later about my experiences this weekend. I stayed at the home of Samuel and Ebenezer Benjamin. Samuel is a Pastor and he and Ebenezer are doing many good things in and around Madurai.

I also took a few snaps around Madurai that I will post when I get back to the hotell.

My plan is to stay in Kodai tonight and be there until about 4 PM on Tuesday, then back to Madras on the Pandian express, picking the train up at Kodai Road.

On the road to Kodai --

Shawn

I think I am in Madurai, and I think I survived the night on the luggage rack.

Shawn

The rumors of a special express train kept me at the station. My rationale was that any seat on the train would be better than a seat on the government bus.

I persevered in numerous lines at Egmore Station for 3 hours before ending up with an "Open Ticket". Total cost: 117 rupee (about $2.50).  What did this great expenditure get me?  I am writing this while reclining on a hanging wood plank luggage rack at the back of a train that reeks of old urine.

I haven't slept more than 4 or 5 hours a night since arriving, except for 1 night in Pondicherry.  I think I will either fall fast asleep and have a sore back tomorrow or be so exhausted I won't be able to do anything.

Not sure if this is better than the bus...

Maybe I will try to snooze while remembering Yuri from Doctor Zhivago riding across Siberia in a very similar train car.  If only I could trade the oppressive heat for the Siberian chill. 

Shawn

When someone you know, trust and can clearly communicate with (ie Jasper) says "Go to 'Current Booking'". -- Go there, not 'Booking'.

When you ask someone "Is this Current Booking?" And they give a weak "yes",  ask 3 other people. 

At Chennai Egmore, Current Booking is on the outside front of the srtation, along the terrace.   The sign says " Current Reservation Counter".

Hoping that the rumors of a special train to Madurai are true.

Shawn

I highly recommend the Villa Pondicherry. Previously in Pondy I stayed at the Executive Inn and the Hotel Suruguru.  Both are excellent in their own right, but neither compare in ambience to the Villa Pondicherry.

On arrival I was greeted my the housekeeper and shown a room on the ground floor, just off the dining area.  The room was comfortably furnished with chair, bed and table you would expect to find in a home.

I was given a padlock for the room and a key to the front door. 

Throughout the house are paintings by the proprietor, Prichaya Manet (a very fitting surname).

The following morning I sat around the table with Pichaya and the other guests (teacher from France, retired couple from Switzerland, aid workers from Belgique).  Though most of the conversation was in French, it was a wonderful way to spend the morning.  The highlight is when the Swiss couple sang a Canadian song (in French), a capella

I found Villa Pondicherry in the Lonely Planet Guide, but the map of Pondicherry shows it closer to town then it actually is.  The map indicates that it is 60m down Ambedkar Salai, but it is closer to 600, past the Sports Complex and across the railroad tracks.   Most autorickshaw drivers will know where it is.

Shawn