Thursday, March 31, 2005
Thursday, March 31, 2005 3:07:15 AM (India Standard Time, UTC+05:30) ( Politics )

I have been thinking more about my comments below regarding Terri Schiavo.   Her parents appealed her case all the way to the Supreme Court of the United Status (SCOTUS).   I had been of the opinion that the SCOTUS should have issued a ruling.   The only change in my opinion is that the Supreme Court has ruled on this issue.  By declining to take up the case they have said in effect that "Mr. and Mrs. Schindler, you do not have standing or merit for us to hear this case."   What more do they need to say.

I came to this opinion after my post on Bob Reselman's Coding Slave blog.

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Tuesday, March 29, 2005
Tuesday, March 29, 2005 7:46:17 AM (India Standard Time, UTC+05:30) ( Politics )

I caught a couple of minutes of CNN, they were running a retrospective of Terri Schiavo’s life.   The narrative was warm and compassionate about her life prior to her lapse into a coma.  That bulimia as a likely cause of the potassium imbalance that caused the coma was quickly covered, without judgment.   The bit seemed more in place on Fox, but Fox vs CNN, liberal vs. conservative will be saved for a future post.

 

The Schiavo case has grabbed headlines because it is such an emotionally appealing issue.  A woman is lying in a bed and slowly dying.  She is in a coma and mostly non-responsive.   That her husband is the one who pushed for the feeding tubes to be removed seems, at first glance, to be the cold calculated moves of a man wanting to be done with caring for his crippled wife after 15 years of being in a coma.  It is easy to see the case in this emotion charged light.

 

I look at it as a test of the legal concept of the rights of a guardian.  Children, the elderly and those unable to make choices for themselves have or are appointed guardians.   In cases such as the Terri Schiavo case, the guardian is her husband.  His role is to make choices that she has previously directed, or are determined to be consistent with her wishes or at least in her best interest.  

 

If Terri Schiavo’s parents were successful in overruling the determination of her guardian then that would open up a huge on notable legal precedent that the will of the public can remove a guardian from his/her responsibilities.

 

Imagine the following:

  •  A mother is caught on a security camera physically disciplining her child.   An outraged public demands that her child be removed from her guardianship. 
  • An Amish family refuses medical treatment for a sick child.   Activists liken the decision to murder and have the child removed from the family for medical treatment.
  • A mother takes her son from Cuba to the US, but is killed trying to reach Florida.  Anti-Castro activists and distant relatives succeed in preventing the return of the child to his father in Cuba.

 

These cases are not far-fetched, and they share, in my untrained legal mind, a strong similarity to the Schiavo case.   Her husband is her guardian, and the courts have repeatedly upheld his judgment of what actions she would prefer to be taken in this situation.   It is hard to look at the anguish of her parents, who disagree, but this is a significant issue that needs to be looked at not in light of the plight of one woman, but in the light of the impact a precedent would have on our society.

 

I think it appropriate that so many courts have weighed in on this matter.  I wish the Supreme Court had been willing to take this matter up.  While not a matter of strict constitutional interpretation, the SCOTUS should have spent the time to offer what jurisprudential wisdom they could spare.

 

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Friday, March 11, 2005
Friday, March 11, 2005 7:15:07 PM (India Standard Time, UTC+05:30) ( India Trip )

I have many more experiences to write about, but I am one hour away from leaving India.  Outside it is pouring rain, the first rain of my visit.   I don’t want to leave without posting a few words of thanks.   There is an old saying that a journey of 10,000 miles begins with the first step.  In my case that first step was working with many individuals to gain the knowledge, confidence and permission to go on this trip.  I know I am leaving people out, it is unintentional, I am sorry if I have left someone out.

 

First I am grateful for Bob and Jim for authorizing this trip.  Without a business purpose I would not have been here.

 

At the first vendor I visited:  Bhaskar, Syamil and Subrata for being the perfect hosts.  You paid attention to every detail and addressed every need and question.  

 

The original Kolkata team: Subrata, Sabyasachi, Anabik, Soumen, Prosenjit, Samadarsi, Anup and Manas.  You guys are the brainpower that drives our group.  Your hard work shows in every success we have.

 

The Noida team:  Kamlesh, Avinash and Som.   I had a great time working with you and I was amazed how much stronger our relationship grew in 3 short days.   Thanks also to Sanjeev for running a great team and for Sudakar for all the advice and information.

 

The new team I setup in Kolkata:  Radhakrishnan, Abu, Samik, Sandeep and Harish.  I have been very impressed by your energy and enthusiasm.   I look forward to working close with you in the future.

 

Thanks to Sathish and Sriram in Chennai for all of your help in building this team.

 

To my good friends and colleagues in Woodland Hills:  Thanks for all of your interest in my trip and much more importantly for your hard work in my absence.  Thanks to Travlin for running the show while I was away.

 

In particular I need to thank Arnab for the immense amount of information that you have shared with me.  Your patient explanations and suggestions of all things India have made this trip the success that it was.  I am also very grateful for your long hours and expertise on our team. A tin of Rosogulla is nowhere close in value to all of your help, especially when I bought the sweets in Chennai.

 

Jyoti and Samadarsi:  Orissa, and particularly Puri, Konark and Bhubaneswar were so much better with good friends and knowledgeable guides.   I can’t wait for the opportunity to host you in my country and return the favor.

 

 LeAnn and Paul on the train back from Agra: The 2 hour long train journey that took 5.   What a great way to spend an evening.  Thank you for sharing your spirituality with me.  May God bless you in your labors, best of luck in your missionary work and music.

 

There are several nameless individuals that have made a permanent impact on my throughout this journey:

 

The man in Siliguri that suggested I move to the front of the train ticket line.  That was the one time I lost control in India, and you immediately made me feel like a fool for loosing control, but that I was valued as a guest.  I can still here him say to me “India is our country, you are our guest, please..”

 

The people I met on the beach in Pondicherry.   Any time I feel that I am in a bad situation I will remember the heartache that you wore so visibly.

 

The “woman in the blue sari”:  Thank you for allowing me to feel a bit of your reality.  You have permanently changed the way I view poverty and homelessness.

 

Thanks to all the honest cab drivers and shopkeepers in India.  Knowing that there are people of integrity in your ranks kept me from losing hope that I meant more on the streets of India than the contents of my wallet.

 

Thanks to everyone who has read this website.  Knowing that there were a few readers has fueled my desire to share my experiences.  Putting these experiences into words has given much more meaning to my travels and perceptions.

 

There are a lot of friends in Gilbert Arizona who have helped my family in my absence.  I don’t know many of the details but I and Amy are very grateful to have such good friends

 

Josh, Ian, Sarah and Abby put up with my absence far too often.   I miss them terribly and can’t wait to experience India with them.

 

Nothing I have accomplished or experienced would be possible without the love and support of my wife Amy.   I can’t come up with words to describe how much I appreciate her.

 

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Wednesday, March 09, 2005
Wednesday, March 09, 2005 10:21:06 PM (India Standard Time, UTC+05:30) ( India Trip )

Rounding the corner at the end of Nehru Street, my destination was a store that maintained a set of phones.  Next to this phone store was a food counter.  Standing near the food counter was a woman in a dirty blue sari.   She was watching me approach.  I steeled myself to resist her begging.  I had to walk right up to her to get in the door.  I did so, took my sandals off and reached to open the door, as I did she just looked at me and smiled. I talked to Amy on the phone for about 15 minutes and then headed for the hotel.  The time was about 11:30, later than I had stayed out and probably not the safest thing to be doing, but I am more comfortable being out late in Pondy than I am in the US.   Putting my sandals on, I started across the street, the hotel being on the outside of the road forming the ring around Pondy.   Crossing streets in India is tricky, even late at night.   I got stranded in the middle of the street as a bunch of cars raced around a corner.   As I was waiting for an opportunity to cross the second half I noticed that I was now heading directly for a group of women holding babies, including the woman I had noticed earlier.   As I crossed the street the women surrounded me with hands outstretched.   My focus landed on the infants sleeping undisturbed in the woman’s arms as they swarmed around me.   I had accumulated a bunch of 1 or 2 rupee coins throughout the day.    Further deviating from my no money to beggars promise, I dropped one coin in each woman’s hand.   I noticed at this point that the woman I had seen earlier was not among the beggars.  She had sat down in the street next to a sleeping girl, another baby in her arms.   I walked on to the hotel.

 

Back in my room, I opened the bag of sweets I had been carrying.   I didn’t feel much like eating them anymore.   I closed the bag, tried to wash some of the grit of the day and went to bed.    I couldn’t stop thinking about the women on the street.   Where they from a scheduled-caste of beggars, where they from successful middle-class families but had fallen on misfortune?   My thoughts were evenly divided between curiosity and empathy.

 

I just couldn’t sleep.    Getting dressed again, I grabbed the bag of sweets and left the hotel.  As I walked out onto the street my watch indicated the time was 12:00 midnight.

 

I walked up the street.  The women were sitting on the sidewalk.   My purposeful stride and the late hour must have caught them by surprise.  They remained sitting as I walked right into the middle of the group and handed the bag of sweets to the woman whom I had first noticed, the one who hadn’t asked anything of me.

 

Then I sat down in the dirt.  The sidewalk was covered in black sooty grime, the same color as the slimy sewage that seeped by in the ditch a few feet away.

 

As soon as I sat down the women sprang to action, placing a baby in my arms.   My own daughter Abby would have been fussing and screaming with all this commotion.  The first baby just kept sleeping.  I had the feeling that this was more a factor of health or nutrition than a peaceful demeanor.   After a few minutes I handed the first child back.  The woman who I had given the sweets to now handed me her younger child, a boy.   Her daughter slept between the two of us.   She was lying on a multi-colored sheet but her head had moved off and was on the raw dirt.   The woman started to shake her awake but I stopped her.  

 

As I held her baby I asked her a single word question: “Why?”

 

She understood.  With the help of another woman she explained that she had married at 17 and when she was 20 her husband left her.   She was 23 now.  She had no idea where he was.  She showed me a leather strand, about the thickness of a shoelace, around her neck, an evident symbol of her status as a married woman.  

 

I asked if she had lived in a home, she had.   Husband gone, she lost the home.

 

Were the other women in this group her family?  No.  But they helped each other out.   They would watch each others kids while taking a shift begging.  They would get about 25 rupees per day.  60 cents.

 

The hopelessness of their situation was apparent to me.  It pulled on my shoulders like a heavy weight.   My work and educational training is essentially centered on solving problems.   I could see no solution to this problem.   For the 10 minutes that I sat there taking turns holding babies I lost the impulse to find a solution to their problem.  But I decided that I could no longer withhold money from a woman asking for help to feed her family.  I would continue to refuse to give money to children, my part of an attempt to break the cycle.  Otherwise I would take each supplicant on a case-by-case basis, with a goal of giving as much as I could.

 

I don’t know why the woman in the blue sari had never asked anything of me.   Maybe it was the icy indifference of my face, initially steeled to oppose her request.  Maybe the dignity of an earlier time had resurfaced.  I don’t know, but her resolve and poise marked a change in my attitudes.   Being part of the group in India that have the money, the jobs and the future provides a certain filtered perspective on the problem of the hopelessly poor that probably appears aloof and distant to the poor.

 

Sitting in the dirt in the middle of the night, with rats and cockroaches scurrying around the sleeping children gives you an entirely different perspective.   I felt connected to them in a “there but for misfortune go I” type of sentiment.   What if it was Sarah sleeping in the dirt, with Abby too malnourished to cry in my arms?

 

I tried to summon the guts to hand them my hotel room key, explain which hotel, explain how to get to room 305, instruct them to return tomorrow, I would be here, taking their place sleeping in the dirt.  Couldn’t do it.

 

Instead I returned to my room.  It was too much for me to comprehend how so many people could get in this situation and have no possible way out.  

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Tuesday, March 08, 2005
Tuesday, March 08, 2005 8:58:57 AM (India Standard Time, UTC+05:30) ( India Trip )

My last night in Pondicherry was destined to be an eventful one, literally.   It was a full moon and evidently the Hindu astrologers had noted that this was an important and valuable date for taking the idols out of the temples and immersing them in the sea.  I returned my motorcycle to the rental shop at 8:30 PM.  The shop is near one of the temples and there was lots of loud bell ringing, drumming and trumpeting in the air nearby.   Walking over to see what the commotion was I found a throng of people following a cart carrying a statue of one of the gods.   There was a young brahmin on the cart dressed only in a dhoti.  He was accepting offerings from the crowd and them handing them a brass plate that had a flame burning in the center of it.  People would gather their hands together through the smoke and flame of this fire and then bring their hands together in front of their face.   It was impressive to see this whole event happening without any real sense of civic coordination.  The people knew what to do, as if this event had been held regularly for 1000+ years, which it probably has.  

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I followed this slow moving procession for a while, before noticing a similar procession heading down a side street.  As I briskly walked through the streets I found about 10 different processions, all making their way through the city in a seemingly random route.

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I am not sure which god these are, maybe one of you can tell me.  

The whole evening was pretty surreal.  The air had a certain electricity to it, the crowds were even more friendly than usual and there was no annoying people trying to get me to buy trinkets anywhere near these processions.   I had missed the part where the dip the statues in the ocean, but watching these events gave me another dimension to my understanding of the Hindu faith.

The processions winding down, I realized that I was pretty hungry, and had wanted to try out one of the nicer restaurants in town on my last night.   It was on the far side of town, so after a long march through the empty streets of the French Quarter I arrived at Seagulls for a surprisingly lacklustre dinner.   But the view of the ocean at moonrise made up for the food.

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Short time lapse of the moon over the Bay of Bengal.

I was on the opposite side of the city from my hotel, it was nearing 10 PM.   I started the long walk back and stopped at a store selling sweets that was jammed with nearly 100 people.  As I walked in the store another customer motioned for the manager to greet me.  He walked me down the length of the counter offering samples of different sweets.  At one point he described how a fruit cake would last for up to 90 days.  I contemplated trying to explain how the fact that not even bacteria would take to fruit cake was not a desirable feature, and that this "delicacy" has a bad reputation in America, but in the end I bought a small piece.  I figured I could use it if anyone asked for a gift from India.

I left the sweet shop with 450 rupee worth of sweets at about 10:30 PM.  The first of the cookies I ate reminded me again of the sweet snack I had been given on the ride up to Gangtok.  It didn't taste bad, but it wasn't the best tasting.  Walking up Nehru Street I was accosted for about the 10th time by a little boy who had asked me daily for money.   I have a strict policy about not giving money to kids, but I did reward his persistence with a cookie.   I think at that moment the gods, newly refreshed in the ocean on the auspicous night of the full moon decided that I needed an entirely different perspective on India.  I thought I was 10 minutes from calling it a day, but little did I know that one strongest experiences in India was just around the corner on Anna Salai Street.  More on that later. 

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Friday, March 04, 2005
Friday, March 04, 2005 11:59:41 PM (India Standard Time, UTC+05:30) ( India Trip )

The morning following my “Beach Day” started off with a festive morning alarm clock of small marching bands passing the hotel, the continuation of auspicious wedding ceremonies the night before.    The energy of this music motivated me to get an early start and I headed off to a rental shop on Mission Street and rented a motorcycle.

 

So many of my previous days had been given a literary based theme and today it was either going to be a Robert Pirsig, “Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance” or a T. E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) day.   The difference was in my first choice of the day:  Which motorcycle - Honda or Royal Enfield.    T.E. Lawrence spent time after the war roaring around the British countryside on an Enfield motorcycle.   Pirsig famously traveled across much of the US in “Zen” on more simple motorcycle.    Not having ridden a motorcycle in 15 years, I opt for the less powerful Honda.   Later on I would remember that Lawrence died on his Enfield when he lost control going around a corner and ran into an oncoming car.   Fixing a Honda on the side of the road seemed like a better theme.

 

Thematic elements finally resolved, I hesitantly and cautiously left central Pondy.    The road rules as far as I could interpret are the following:

 

Stay to the left. The farther to the left you are the more safe you are.

 

Size matters.   The bigger the vehicle the more inherent the right of way. 

Pass on the right,  passing on the left is dangerous because people move to the left when someone is passing them, usually.

 

Your horn is your voice and you are expected to constantly be jabbering to your fellow travelers.  Honk when passing, when coming to a corner or blind turn, when irritated, when indicating it is safe to be passed etc.   But don’t cry wolf with your horn, that only earns you a look that can only be interpreted as “Foreigners should not be allowed to drive/ not be allowed to visit”.

 

40 km/h is fast enough.   

 

“Speed Bumpers” are often not marked, it is your responsibility to detect and these and potholes and cattle guards and piles of rice in the road.

 

Traffic control devices are advisory only.  If it is a red light and the other side isn’t moving then go for it.   Same goes with traffic control police, be polite but remember they are “civil servants” and your taxes pay their salary, allowing you to decide who goes or stops.

 

Those are the jungle rules as I understood them.    Next is the taxonomy of vehicles in the genus Vehiculus Indus:

 

Buses:   Buses rule the road.   They are the undisputed masters of everything.   They define modern juggernaut.  Get out of their way or else.  Government buses are the worst.

 

Lorries:  These large trucks are only slightly less dangerous than lorries.  I have seen lorries intimidated to the left by a bus on occasion.    Truck drivers do have a sense of helpful obligation to smaller vehicles if they come up behind them and honk in a way that means “I want to pass you”.  The driver will frequently motion with his arm out the window when it is safe to pass.

 

SUV:  These species seem to have recently been imported from another continent and have spread across the plains and hills of the Indian subcontinent faster than killer bees have swarmed the Americas.   Their air-conditioned interiors isolate the driver from their surroundings making them a creature to watch with caution while driving.

 

The Ambassador:  These tiny cars have an inferiority complex on the road.   They will buzz around insistently demanding their perceived right to be at the head of the pack.  The taxis are too old and underpowered to dominate and the little white ones with the squealing red siren are senior government employees wondering why nobody gives them the respect they deserve.

 

The Super Small:  There are two philosophies for getting through congested traffic.   Drive a massive vehicle and scare everyone into getting out of your way or drive a small vehicle that can fit through the gaps in the jams.   Since a bus is not an affordable family vehicle, many opt for the smallest cars made by Maruti/Suzuki/Tata/Ford.   These vehicles would be a tin coffin on super fast American roads, but they are quite useful in narrow, slower Indian roads.

 

3 Wheelers:      This class is the auto-rickshaw and the 3 wheeled truck.   These slow moving creatures fill the roads, gaining in volume with proximity to a town or city.  2 cycle bliss at 30 km/h.

 

The Bike:  This is the common vehicle of India.   They are everywhere and carry as many people as can, in any possible way, climb aboard.  There are three general varieties:  Large bikes, Enfields and larger Honda’s.  Harley’s would be too wide and expensive for India.   Small bikes:  Honda trail bikes and small engine jobs.  Affordable and ever-present.  This was my choice of wheels.  Scooters:  Zippy little items with the handy area designed for feet, but useful as a substantial cargo area.

 

The Oxcart:  They don’t have horns and they don’t move fast.  The driver rarely has his hands on the reigns.  The oxcart poses the poses daring questions to other drivers:  What would it feel like to collide with a pile of lumber?   Don’t expect them to move out of your way or otherwise acknowledge your existence.  They were in India long before petrol power and should be given their literal Brahmin respect.

 

Bicycle:  Yea, whatever.   Eat dirt or die.   The bicycle may have the numbers in most area, but they are impotent in regards to everyone except pedestrians.  Even stray goats can cause a cyclist to have to abandon his course.

 

Pedestrians:  Usually stay safely to the side on open roads, but will walk wherever in the city.  Be nice to them, you may be related to them in a past life.

 

Cows:  These animals are here to try our patience.  Expect them to be on the road in a place where they are least expected.

 

Other animals: Goats, chickens, elephants are all common sights on the road.   Good thing about India is that there are a lot of vegetarians who don't believe in killing, and that includes you and the zoo you are sharing the road with.

 

 

Of course I know everything I need to know about driving in India.  Heading down the East Coast Road towards Chennai, my first destination is Auroville.   This place was setup in 1968 by “The Mother”, the spiritual companion of Sri Aurobindo who had an ashram in Pondy.  The community is designed to be a model community where religion is absent and people from all backgrounds and nations live and work in peaceful harmony.  The French woman running the cafeteria and yelling at the Indian employees pretty much summed up the place for me.   In my humble opinion creating harmony in even a small part of the larger world is a greater accomplishment than creating an insular community in the wilderness that proclaims to have harmony.

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Narrow roads in Auroville.

 

Leaving Auroville I wandered around through country roads for many, many miles.  

 

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It was amazing to get away from the highway and see fields stretching into the distance. 

 

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This picture could easily have been taken 80 years ago, remove the power lines and it could be 200 years ago.

 

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I was riding past the field that these women were working in and they all started screaming and running towards me.  I thought that maybe my Honda was on fire or something.   Silly me, they just wanted some of my money.   110 rupees later and I am suddenly a farm subsidy specialist.  I believe them when they say that they work all day in a watermelon field and don't make enough money to live off of.

 

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Temples and mountains and tourist attractions aside, I had a wonderful time just driving down these endless country roads.

 

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The women working this rice paddy did not want their picture taken.  After I took it I realized why, what women would want their picture taken when they are up to their knees in muck with a bale of muddy rice on their head?

 

By late afternoon I meandered back to Pondy.  At one point a sign said that I was 14 km away, but I kept turning down side roads and it took another couple of hours to get back.  

 

Once back in town I stopped by Hot Breads, a French bakery.  Settling down with my new addiction, Lime Soda - Sweet, I listened to the American music they were playing on the stereo, starting with "Country Roads".  I prefer to John Denver original, but this one had the same effect.

 

Life is old there
Older than the trees
Younger than the mountains
Growin’ like a breeze

Country roads, take me home
To the place I belong
...

I hear her voice
In the mornin’ hour she calls me
The radio reminds me of my home far away
And drivin’ down the road I get a feelin’
That I should have been home yesterday, yesterday

 

 

I step out into the warm evening breeze, the festivities in Pondy are reaching a fever pitch around me, my mind swirling with thoughts of home and my body energized by the drums, trumpets and crowds around me.  It was 6:00 PM but I still had miles and miles to go before I rested.  

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